Landmannalaugar

In the southern highlands around Landmannalaugar, your usual geological references simply do not map onto the landscape in front of you. If you had fallen asleep on the ride in — which you can’t, because it’s too bumpy — and awoken in this place, you might wonder if you’re still on the same planet. Everything is quietly moving: melting snow, distant streams and braided rivers spread across moss-covered slopes and volcanic rock. You hardly want to blink as you walk, for fear of missing another revelation.